For the uninitiated, Lofoten is a long peninsula stretching out from the Norwegian coastline a little further up from the Arctic Circle. The islands making up the archipelago are all classic Norway - soaring cliffs, isolated beaches and vertiginous mountains overshadowing tiny fishing villages below. Thanks (I’m wildly guessing) to the Gulf Stream, the climate here is satisfyingly more comfortable than what you would typically expect this far up north. The days have peaked at around 15 degrees and the midnight sun means that the nights are not much different from the days.
This potent combination of stunning scenery, unending days and comfortable climate means that from at least June - August the islands are absolutely seething with tourists. I knew to expect this, but several times over the last few days I couldn’t help but feel like I had drawn the short straw.
The first night was a quick stop over in Leknes. My flight arrived at 9.15pm and there wasn’t a chance of getting a bus to any more affordable hostels after my walk from the airport down into town. I settled on a night in the cheapest (but still frustratingly expensive) Airbnb instead. Don’t count the number of times that I complain about the cost of living here because I’ll say it again - it’s insane. Even Iceland was more reasonable…